We drive east into Kakadu National Park, which is about 2 hours from Darwin. We board a small boat, cruise down a croc infested river and soon witness crocodiles, lured by meat on a string, launching out of the water with impressive force and conviction. I have definitely left the civilization of the city behind.

After spotting Jacintas, Crocs, Jabirus and many varieties of Egret and other local wildlife on a sunset cruise along Yellow Waters Billabong, Sab drives me to an amazing area outside Cooinda where he had set up camp. I had the choice of staying in the local hotel or under the stars. Tonight I chose the tent. The barbecue was hot and he quickly added some steaks and prepared a fresh salad, and there we were, dining under the stars.

No sleep in today. We left camp early and headed for Arnhemland. We met our aboriginal guide, Wilfred, who walked us to the closest hill, and we slowly ascended. Almost at the top, while admiring the expansive views of the outback, we were told to look back and under a rock ledge were some of the most well preserved Aboriginal Rock Art drawings in the Territory. Wilfred explained the meaning and significance of the drawings, which had been passed down for centuries by community elders. 

From the bush to bush luxury, the next day I found myself on a 400,000 acre cattle station on the western boundary of Kakadu National Park. Bamurru Plains is a new lodge built on the top corner of the station, overlooking the wetlands. John, the Manager, offers us a cool drink and takes us to the pool deck, where we start to watch the sun set over the wetlands; a fire lit sky against the backdrop of reeds and flowers floats in front of us.

Jo fixes us a gourmet meal in the main house complemented by fine Aussie and Kiwi wines. The talk amongst the other guests revolves around the air boat ride they took earlier in the day; hovering across the wetlands just above the water, they streamed by buffalo, plant life, birds, and crocs – all so close! I retire to my safari suite, spacious and enclosed in a fine mesh; it allows unsurpassed views of the wetlands. There are birds everywhere, and I fall asleep tonight to their incredible sounds; a perfect day of exploration in the Aussie Bush.  

I conclude that three days is ideal to spend at Bamurru Plains – tour the station, explore the wetlands, try one’s luck at fishing and simply enjoy the vastness of the region.

The final leg of my Top End exploration sees me board a 1.5 hour charter flight to the western side of the Territory, to Bullo River Station. This half million acre working cattle station is owned by Marlee and Franz Ranacher who are incredibly welcoming and enthusiastic to share their half a million acre backyard with their guests.

Here, you become part of the station and its daily activities. Surrounded by the station hands, manager and workers, you truly get to know what it means to live and work on a station. Trevor, roughly bearded, rolled cigarette in the corner of his mouth at all times, and a worn and tattered Akubra hat says in a raspy voice, “Hey Ian, how ‘bout we catch some Barra?”

Of course he is referring to the Barramundi, a locally prized sport fish that is in abundance around the Territory in the rivers, lakes and bays. As we walk down to the river and I let my first casts fly, the obvious question beckons. What about crocs? As I looked across the other side of the river and saw the remains of a slide in the sand of where a croc had slid into the water Trevor pipes in with “Well I suppose the old girl is down here now,” as he slowly walked back out of the river onto the banks. Needless to say I quickly followed!

We arrived back at the station to the smell of a barbecue; local steaks were sizzling away for dinner. A glass of Chardonnay was placed in my hand and Marlee explained a little of her life story at Bullo. The last of the campfire burns out signaling it is time to turn in.

Following a hearty breakfast, Franz takes me up in the helicopter and explains that there is so much of the station that hasn’t ever been walked on by white man, adding that he is certain there is likely Aboriginal rock art that remains undiscovered.

The chopper lands between some dramatic escarpments that lead to the Cascades; a series of about 10 pools all cascading down to the river. For an authentically rustic outback experience, Franz will set up a camp with barbecue for you and you can spend the night out here – incredible!

The last morning here, after helping to muster the cattle, I took a slow cruise up the gorge. What an unbelievable sight, the mirrored reflection of the trees and escarpments is beyond amazing. Again we found spots that you just don’t believe could exist anywhere; had a great barbecue on the river bank and then headed back, packed up my swag and said good-bye to Bullo and my Top End adventure.


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GETTING THERE:
By Airplane
Bamurru Plains is approximately a 25 minute flight from Darwin by light aircraft charter and departs daily at 1:45pm between February and October. Bullo River Station is approximately a 1.5 hour light aircraft charter flight from Bamurru or a 2 hour light aircraft charter flight from Darwin. Bullo River station can also be accessed by air from Kununurra in Western Australia or from Katherine in the Northern Territory.

By Road
Bamurru Plains is approximately a 3 hour drive from Darwin or a 2.5 hour drive from Kakadu National Park. Kununurra in Western Australia is the closest access point by road to Bullo River station. The drive time is approximately 2.5 hours. Access by road from Katherine and Darwin is also possible however the distances are extremely lengthy.

WHEN TO GO*
The Monsoon – ‘The Wet’ – December to March
This time of year results in heavy rains most days with some spectacular storms.

March to May
As the waters recede from the floodplains, the Magpie Geese and Brolgas are starting to tend newly hatched young and the shallower areas of water attract a variety of water birds. The country can still receive the occasional late season storm.

May to July – early ‘Dry’
Cooler day and night temperatures and lower humidity make this period a more comfortable time of the year to visit from a climatic perspective.

August to September – late ‘Dry’
The days are warmer and the nights not so cool. Greater concentrations of birds are evident on the billabongs as the waterways and floodplains dry out.

The Pre-Monsoon - October to December
The clear skies of the dry season transform themselves into build ups of cumulus and sudden massive storm cells. The parched earth soaks up the rain and the transformation of the floodplains to a carpet of greenery is remarkable.

*Please note Bamuuru Plains is closed from November through January. Bullo River Station is closed December through January.

WHAT TO PACK: Be sure to pack light clothing, sunscreen, bug spray, swim wear, comfortable walking shoes, flip flops or sandals and several pairs of socks. There really isn’t any need for formal attire, even in the city of Darwin.